Diesel starting trouble

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Mike in Bryan, Ohio

114 months ago

I have a 1994 Ford F-250 7.3 Diesel non turbo. It started experiencing a lack of power about three to four weeks ago. It took the engine more rotations to start when it was cold, and sometimes it would stall after running for a minute. Once you were going down the road, it would loose power. Say you were going 55mph and it would just slow down about 10mph and then kick back in like you punched the acelerator. I changed the fuel filter and it still done the same thing just not as bad. I then started it the one day and it ran for a couple minutes and just died. It now will not start or even attempt to fire. I changed to fuel pump, but still will not fire. I thought maybe it was air in the lines, but how do you bleed the system if it won't start? Also could there be something else I should check?

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cocytus in Fort Wayne, Indiana

102 months ago

I agree...sounds like a compression issue.
Do you have a comp. gauge?
If not, you may consider buying one and checking the comp. pressure.
The instructions come w/ the gauge if you aren't sure how to use it.
Good Luck!

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Deon in Johannesburg, South Africa

96 months ago

Have u tried ur DIESELPUMP and INJECTORS. If u think of that then maybe it would be the prob. If not then buy urself a electrick FEULPUMP. Install it then trie again. Change the FEULPIPES and clean ur FEULTANK. If not trie ur piston rings thats the only way.

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Aaron in White Pigeon, Michigan

96 months ago

If it is non turboed then it is a mechanical fuel injection pump is going bad or there is a air leak in a line in between it an the tank pump and is sucking air. But if there is air in the lines you can have a hard time finding a air leak.

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vidal reyes in Victoria, Texas

95 months ago

i have a 92 f250 7.3 non turbo i have replaced the glow plugs the glow plug relay the fuel filter the starter, this is what it does it want start without starting fluid then it will stay runing, now when i kill it it want start not even with starting fluid let it sit for a few hours then it will start need help

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Aaron in White Pigeon, Michigan

94 months ago

It can be a few things it could be the fuel pressure regulator or the electric shut off in the injection pump or the injectors maybe going bad. I'd check the fuel presure first to the inj. pump and out of the pump. it could even just be the fuel pump that supplies the injection pump.

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vidal reyes in Victoria, Texas

94 months ago

equist in Chattanooga, Tennessee said: 1994 ford 7.3 diesel f350 auto. will not start when engine gets hot plus it smokes

might be the injection pump that is what was wrong with mine after it got hot would not start till it cooled down

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rafael in Edinburg, Texas

94 months ago

make sure your fuel pressure is good. i would recomment you replace your fuel filter. make sure your apr valve and connector is good. if you can check your pressure from ur high pressure pump. you can dead head it with a gage greater than 5000 psi rated.

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rafael in Edinburg, Texas

94 months ago

it is called an internal leak. you need to find leaks around your injectors. recommendations is to re-seal injectors and make sure ur high pressure oil lines are not leaking.ii

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rafael in Edinburg, Texas

94 months ago

Mike in Bryan, Ohio said: I have a 1994 Ford F-250 7.3 Diesel non turbo. It started experiencing a lack of power about three to four weeks ago. It took the engine more rotations to start when it was cold, and sometimes it would stall after running for a minute. Once you were going down the road, it would loose power. Say you were going 55mph and it would just slow down about 10mph and then kick back in like you punched the acelerator. I changed the fuel filter and it still done the same thing just not as bad. I then started it the one day and it ran for a couple minutes and just died. It now will not start or even attempt to fire. I changed to fuel pump, but still will not fire. I thought maybe it was air in the lines, but how do you bleed the system if it won't start? Also could there be something else I should check?

sounds like you are loosing compression. i would check the compression on the engine and then proceed with something else.

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Joel in Springfield, Missouri

94 months ago

RIGO in Palm Desert, California said: NO TURBO NO POWER

i bet you drive a pinto

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aaron in White Pigeon, Michigan

92 months ago

You can check the controller and relay with a mutimeter for electronics for resistance in them high resistance thay are no good!!!

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aaron in White Pigeon, Michigan

92 months ago

Yea it is best to find the specs for the resistance from the Manufacture!! I have worked around a lot of diesels

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tim in Dahlonega, Georgia

90 months ago

greasepin in Raymond, Washington said: I have a 96 F250,DI turbo diesel, 90K, won't start cold. Starts if I use block heater for a couple hours, or if I park it in the garage overnight. I've been told it needs glow plugs, but it could the controller or the relay. How tell if its the relay or the controller? greasepin

Its your glow plugs

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greasepin in Elma, Washington

90 months ago

It was the relay

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Aaron in White Pigeon, Michigan

90 months ago

It can be ether one the relay can be checked on the motor on the top pass side. you can check it with a multimeter!!

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paul garr

88 months ago

francisco casas in Round Rock, Texas said: i have a 95 ford f250 turbo ,engine runs noisy , want to sell it like it is , asking $1,350

how much would you sell it for

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Aaron in White Pigeon, Michigan

88 months ago

paul garr said: I have a 93 f250 none trubo and my injector pump that wint out and i need to now how to retime the engine so it will run

Turn the engine to top dead center on cylinder one then remove the old pump the look to see the specs for the timeing of the new pump to the engine to see where it needs to be.

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Greely in Jacksonville, Florida

88 months ago

Mike in Bryan, Ohio said: I have a 1994 Ford F-250 7.3 Diesel non turbo. It started experiencing a lack of power about three to four weeks ago. It took the engine more rotations to start when it was cold, and sometimes it would stall after running for a minute. Once you were going down the road, it would loose power. Say you were going 55mph and it would just slow down about 10mph and then kick back in like you punched the acelerator. I changed the fuel filter and it still done the same thing just not as bad. I then started it the one day and it ran for a couple minutes and just died. It now will not start or even attempt to fire. I changed to fuel pump, but still will not fire. I thought maybe it was air in the lines, but how do you bleed the system if it won't start? Also could there be something else I should check?

Had a '96 do that and it was the orings on the injectors.

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kirk22 in Theodore, Alabama

88 months ago

I have a 2005 ford f 250 I have fumes coming in truck when ac is on
smells like antifreeze changed heater core cleaned duct but I still
have fumes, not all the time about ever 20 minutes gets real bad when you push truck hard. can anyone help

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Aaron R in White Pigeon, Michigan

88 months ago

I may be coming from under the hood threw the vent or there is a leak under the hood you should pressure check the system. I had a few trucks the over flow tank craked where you did not see it but smelled it at first.

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kirk22 in Theodore, Alabama

88 months ago

Thanks I will try that,I have a travel trailor and you cant stand to drive the truck when I pull the trailor because of the fumes coming in the cab

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Aaron R in White Pigeon, Michigan

88 months ago

If there is a leak fix it then wash under the hood with enginge degreasser when it is running

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Aaron Ripplinger in White Pigeon, Michigan

87 months ago

There may be a air in the system or the fuel pressure regulator

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Aaron Ripplinger in White Pigeon, Michigan

87 months ago

Some times you have to keep cranking but only do it in two to three min intervals then wait 5 to 6 to let the starter cool and use starter in shots to keep it moving wit hout the starter to prime it easyer but dont over do it with the starter fluid or it will lock it up!

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Sarajayee in Texarkana, Arkansas

87 months ago

Thank you! You've been a big help- hopefully I can get her running!

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tito in San Bernardino, California

85 months ago

i'm about to do compression test on 1990 ford 7.3L what is a good compression?

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m524 in Medical Lake, Washington

83 months ago

kirk22 in Theodore, Alabama said: I have a 2005 ford f 250 I have fumes coming in truck when ac is on
smells like antifreeze changed heater core cleaned duct but I still
have fumes, not all the time about ever 20 minutes gets real bad when you push truck hard. can anyone help

try changing your radiator cap it could be leeking if that dose not help check you'r coolant line runing to and from you'r heater and the bypass for and oily res-i-dew because any one of them can have a pinhole that can leek under a load usually the heater lines next to the firewall passanger side behind the engine!! and its possible to have a weak hose clamp!! cause a leak to!!

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clwalter in Oak Harbor, Washington

82 months ago

never use starter fluid with glowplugs. thats a good way to blow the heads off the truck

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Aaron Ripplinger in White Pigeon, Michigan

82 months ago

clwalter in Oak Harbor, Washington said: never use starter fluid with glowplugs. thats a good way to blow the heads off the truck

It is if you dont wait for the glowplugs to turn off or disconnect them first i have used starter fluid on them and never blew a head!!!

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Aaron Ripplinger in White Pigeon, Michigan

82 months ago

WD-40 also works better at starting a diesel because it will not eather lock the motor if you are trying to start it or prime fuel filters after changing them!!!!!

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Aaron Ripplinger in White Pigeon, Michigan

82 months ago

rodney in Buford, Georgia said: i have a 1999 F350 7.3 power stroke ,i have a lot of trouble starting it in the mornings.i changed my fuel filter several time in a month. it starts then dies repeatitly.i also changed the cam shaft sensor and still does it.i get it cranked and sometime's going down the road it dies. the water light come on ,but i check it for water and cant find any in the filter canister , i just dont know.

Check the crank sensor and the fuel pressure regulator. electronics are netorius for failure

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Aaron Ripplinger in Granger, Indiana

82 months ago

rafael in Weslaco, Texas said: open the (small crack)fuel lines to the injectors( crank the engine over) , so the air can come out. you may have rust in the fuel tank thats why you losing power. your high pressure oil pump maybe out so you don't have pressure (output is about 2,000 to 3,000psi) that well cause it not start. but you need to if the engine is making conpression.

I have never seen a 1994 ford E-350 7.3L IDI non tubo with highpressure oil pump

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kyle lively in Hurst, Texas

81 months ago

93 7.3l idi turbo .. replaced all o rings all fuel lines too them , went to start then it would idle up and die .. new fuel pump 4 months old so i know its good ... took valve out of fuel filter housing and replaced .. cranked alot till got it running but whats my ? is how do u know when its tottally blead ? i pumped 3 cups full of fuel out from valve fuel slowly comes and then speed up under full throttle ... im clueless is ther a way to open gas cap and try starting to eliminate air ? someone please help .. thank you, kyle

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mario sherwin in Sudan

81 months ago

Mike in Bryan, Ohio said: I have a 1994 Ford F-250 7.3 Diesel non turbo. It started experiencing a lack of power about three to four weeks ago. It took the engine more rotations to start when it was cold, and sometimes it would stall after running for a minute. Once you were going down the road, it would loose power. Say you were going 55mph and it would just slow down about 10mph and then kick back in like you punched the acelerator. I changed the fuel filter and it still done the same thing just not as bad. I then started it the one day and it ran for a couple minutes and just died. It now will not start or even attempt to fire. I changed to fuel pump, but still will not fire. I thought maybe it was air in the lines, but how do you bleed the system if it won't start? Also could there be something else I should check?

first remove the hose of the intake shatter,and try to cover by your hand and crank the engine,you fill have a vacuum that mean the engine is good but no vacuum that mean your piston ring of your engine is poor or loss compression. second remove the injetor assy, fix the fuel line into the injector assy try to crank engine manytime you see the actual of spray of diesel if the spray is poor that mean the nozzle tip is weak need to clean or change new one... fuel injection mechanic is my job thank,

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Aaron Ripplinger in White Pigeon, Michigan

80 months ago

I is a sensor or regulator going outin the electronics i am a diesel tech you need a tech to scan the computer

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timo in Iraq

79 months ago

Aaron Ripplinger in White Pigeon, Michigan said: I is a sensor or regulator going outin the electronics i am a diesel tech you need a tech to scan the computer

typical school trained mechanic u dnt neeed a scanner to diagnose 7.3 powerstrokes electronic or idi controlled engines for anything not even finding a bad injector couple simple sensor checks unplug icp snesor if truck runs with sensor unpluged theres ur problem crank shaft sensor problems look at ur tach when ur crankin if aint movin crank shaft sensor problem next truck wont start again unplug fuel heater bowl truck starts found ur problem turck runin first of the day grab temp gun shoot the ir laser at the exhaust manifold find the coldest spot found ur bad injectors or in most cases bad 9 pin harness things dealerships charge u for oh yeah got bad injectors nah got a 9 pin faling out of the connections under the valve cover any more stuff is easy to figure think u got a hpop pump weak plug a 10 ohm ressitor inbetween b&c on the icp if u notice a big jump which u should cause u just tricked the computer into thinking it has low pressure by adding the resistance in the wire if u notice no rise in hp then yeah that thing is on its last leg anything else just think about theory of operation

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Aaron Ripplinger in Constantine, Michigan

78 months ago

It sound like the injection pump is out of time. so try to retime it first.

jonboy in Lorton, Virginia said: I have a 1992 7.3 diesel. My question is , when its cold the truck has firing problem , it starts at the turn of the key runs rough for a few seconds then dies . Icrank again for a few minutes then fires running roughly,i have to play with the pedal to keep it running, then once it warms up its like a new truck runs great.....ive replaced glowplugs/injectors/ relay/solenoid/block heater ...any suggestions on what to replace next? Thanks so much in advance
jon

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ryan in Sunapee, New Hampshire

77 months ago

Mike in Bryan, Ohio said: I have a 1994 Ford F-250 7.3 Diesel non turbo. It started experiencing a lack of power about three to four weeks ago. It took the engine more rotations to start when it was cold, and sometimes it would stall after running for a minute. Once you were going down the road, it would loose power. Say you were going 55mph and it would just slow down about 10mph and then kick back in like you punched the acelerator. I changed the fuel filter and it still done the same thing just not as bad. I then started it the one day and it ran for a couple minutes and just died. It now will not start or even attempt to fire. I changed to fuel pump, but still will not fire. I thought maybe it was air in the lines, but how do you bleed the system if it won't start? Also could there be something else I should check?

it could be ur injector psi regulater, also could be a injection pump issue. to bleed the system fist make sure u have fuel in the filter there should be a hand pump eather by the filter housing or on the inj.. pump. pump to u feel fuel being transfered. after that try to start in it dosnt start after a few trys, repeat. if still no start start cracking injector lines as u keep pumping untill u get fuel out of them start with the number 1 cylinder first than move in the fireing order. if truck still dosnt start check shut off silinoide. still no fire than i would got internal. first checking the nozzels then performing a compression test.

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Kaelyn in Theodore, Alabama

69 months ago

timo in Iraq said: typical school trained mechanic u dnt neeed a scanner to diagnose 7.3 powerstrokes electronic or idi controlled engines for anything not even finding a bad injector couple simple sensor checks unplug icp snesor if truck runs with sensor unpluged theres ur problem crank shaft sensor problems look at ur tach when ur crankin if aint movin crank shaft sensor problem next truck wont start again unplug fuel heater bowl truck starts found ur problem turck runin first of the day grab temp gun shoot the ir laser at the exhaust manifold find the coldest spot found ur bad injectors or in most cases bad 9 pin harness things dealerships charge u for oh yeah got bad injectors nah got a 9 pin faling out of the connections under the valve cover any more stuff is easy to figure think u got a hpop pump weak plug a 10 ohm ressitor inbetween b&c on the icp if u notice a big jump which u should cause u just tricked the computer into thinking it has low pressure by adding the resistance in the wire if u notice no rise in hp then yeah that thing is on its last leg anything else just think about theory of operation

our truck idols then when u go not even a mile down the road it shuts off with no warning . This truck is not out of diesel. It has ran out of diesel before and we bled the lines then it ran for about a week then we started having probloems with keeping it running ever since.

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David Gunnells in Rome, Georgia

69 months ago

Kaelyn in Theodore, Alabama said: our truck idols then when u go not even a mile down the road it shuts off with no warning . This truck is not out of diesel. It has ran out of diesel before and we bled the lines then it ran for about a week then we started having probloems with keeping it running ever since.

the sock in the tank that you were using when you ran out of fuel might be dirty, clogged up. Are you willing to sell your truck if so let me know

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Aaron Ripplinger in Kalamazoo, Michigan

69 months ago

trisha in Georgetown, Texas said: i have a 1996 f250 and i changed both solinods and the starter and it wont start checked all the wires nothings lose the only thing that clicks is a relay that i've changed... i don't know whats wrong...please help!

First you need a muli-meter to check volt drop across grounds and positive cables there may be high resistains in the cables or a loose one. Also check the batteries at autozone, napa or advance I have seen battieries read 12.6 volts but have dead cells and the starter just clicks.

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aaronripplinger in White Pigeon, Michigan

69 months ago

Kaelyn in Theodore, Alabama said: our truck idols then when u go not even a mile down the road it shuts off with no warning . This truck is not out of diesel. It has ran out of diesel before and we bled the lines then it ran for about a week then we started having probloems with keeping it running ever since.

what year is the truck if it is the 7.3 powerstroke remember one at a company I worked for did the same thing and it was a fuel pressure regulator.

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PK in Irmo, South Carolina

69 months ago

I have 2000 F250 7.6lt turbo very hard to start,thought it was temperature related but now when block warm won't start. I am new to deisel engines..please advise. Never noticed problem driving or pulling loads

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Paul in Santa Fe Springs, California

67 months ago

I have a 2002 F-250 diesel, i notices fuel leaking under the truck. I was told to change the fuel/water seperator valve located on the fuel filter reservor. I did that with no sucess. the leaking is somewhere over the transmission. Does anyone have any idea what this is or where i should look.

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aaronripplinger in White Pigeon, Michigan

67 months ago

Paul in Santa Fe Springs, California said: I have a 2002 F-250 diesel, i notices fuel leaking under the truck. I was told to change the fuel/water seperator valve located on the fuel filter reservor. I did that with no sucess. the leaking is somewhere over the transmission. Does anyone have any idea what this is or where i should look.

First off there fuel lines are in the frame up to the engine if it looks like the fuel is coming from ontop of the trans it is some where in the valley of the engine on top if you fixed the leak with the new valve on top then there is a lot of fuel in the valley and it needs to be cleaned out. If there is still a leak then its one of the heads because the high pressure fuel runs threw them. In a internal tank to feed the injectors they are on the inside of the valley toward the top. good luck

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aaronripplinger in White Pigeon, Michigan

67 months ago

I am finding more info for you aaronripplinger at yahoo to email me this site wont let me do the links for the diagrams

Paul in Santa Fe Springs, California said: what you tell me makes good sense. but i am not sure what you ment by leaking at the head which is located in the valley. What head are you talking about? i am hoping your not talking about the cylinder head.
Paul

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mikey11211 in Forked River, New Jersey

57 months ago

hi all,,..i have a 1990 f350..7.3 non turbo..its losing its prime after sitting for about an hour. ive replaced the manual fuel pump and it started fine for about 3 weeks..now i have to hit it with ether every morning to get it started. i just installed an electric fuel pump between the tank and the manual pump(was told to do that so the bowl stays full)...no good. im guessing the problem is between the manual pump to the fuel filter? maybe a defective manual pump being that it ran good for a while? when i bleed it i get alot or air out before fuel starts coming out...on the other hand when i cut the metal fuleline before the manual pump,, to instal the electric pump no fuel came out. now what ? any help would be greatly appreciated ..thanks...should i start be replacing the manual pump again? ..mike in nj

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Tuckguy 35 in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan

54 months ago

My 84 250 has a 6.9 diesel that was running fine but now will not start, even with ether. It turns over well but it won't even cough or sputter. I never use the glow plugs with ether... I know that will blow up the precombustion chambers. I have drained the drainable fuel filter to make sure there is not water in it. Still... no fire. What's next?

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Tuckguy35 in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan

53 months ago

Joao in Pretoria, South Africa said: Electrical fault to diesel pump maybe?

Thanks for the suggestion. Power to the injection pump and fuel shut off solenoid were both fine. I changed the manual lift pump but still no fuel.... so I checked the water separator.... no fuel there either....so I topped it up and as I went to start the engine I noticed a small dribble of fuel at the drain from the separator! a little bit of crap had plugged that valve so it wouldn't seal, allowing the fuel to dribble out. So..... as I was trying to start the engine, all it was doing was sucking air... and even with ether it won't start if it is sucking too much air! PROBLEM SOLVED!!!! Engine now starts and runs fine! Anyone want to buy a 28 year old lift pump??? Still works... I guess.. but probably due for a change anyway! The clue that I did not pick up on was when it wouldn't even fart with the addition of ether when I checked compression and found it to be reasonable (300 lbs). This probabley meant that it was easier for the engine to suck air from somewhere and the ether wasn't even making it to the combustion chambers! Anyway...... got some driving to do!

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