05 international 4300 series power problem

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JUVILO in AURORA, Colorado

28 months ago

GMC in Cincinnati, Ohio said: I have seen this a few times and have fixed it in under 5 min's..
"Cam Shaft Sensor" its on the front right side (1) 10mm bolt and unplug the wirer. Make sure the 'O' ring comes out when you remove the old Sensor and clean any rust and pain from were the Sensor is held!!!!.. I have seen this many,many,many, times.. Hope this helps

MIRACLE...Cam Shaft Sensor...DID THE JOB...THANK'S A MILLION

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Rudy in Greenwood, Arkansas

28 months ago

I have an 05' 4300, question is this. THe weather has started getting cooler around here. I live in NW arkansas. It's in the 40's right now. Ive never had a problem starting the truck. The "problem" to me is that when i start my truck, like most every diesel it runs rough until the heat gauge moves and then it will settle off and run pretty smooth. It seems now , since its gotten cooler that i have to let the thing sit and idle for 15mins+ before i drive it and even when i go to take off itll still be sluggish until you feel the "click" and it smooths out then runs great. If you ever try to take off right after youve started, thing feels like itll barely pull. THis is my 2nd international and they both have been moody like this in cooler weather. In summer time obviously it doesnt do this. But even just last winter it wasnt doing it this bad. It seems like now im having to let it sit at least 15mins-20mins where just last jan. If i let it sit 10mins it was good to go. It feels so rough when it's idling in these first 15mins it feels just like an injector is out. But, i have plenty of power once it warms up. When i come to stops it cycles down smoothly, idles smoothly, takes off smoothly. ALthough, i will say that it does seem like its not got the 'take off' straight from a stop sign, as it did say 5months ago after i had the last injector put in, but then again i never try to gun it at a stop sign anyway.

I'm just wondering if this may be a sign that another injector is possibly going bad? Ive had injectors 4,5,6 replaced in the last 2yrs. thats what im thinking it is. Had IH mech tell me on my old truck (i had to let it sit 15mins in winter before going) it was needing injectors because the orings werent seating in good until the truck warmed up. once they did itd run great. I wonder if thats how it is on this one. Since i still got 3 old injs in it? im needing an oil change i guess i could have them put it on the comp and check the inj.

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Rudy in Greenwood, Arkansas

28 months ago

Went to work today . It was 39. I let my truck idle for 20mins until it warmed up and it worked great. ran great. WHich makes me wonder, is there some timer or some sensor in these trucksthat might be bad . i mean just last winter i only had to let this truck idle for 10-12 mins before it was ready to roll and it was like 0 degrees. WInter before that it got down to
-12 and i only had to let it idle for 10-12mins. I wonderif there is some kind of sensor thats not working correctly. Cuz when it does start its smooth idle. Its just like you flip a switch. It's rough rough rough then smooth. ALso, the Wait to start light never has come on with this truck. i just figured the light may have not worked and i would wait 15 seconds to start it anyway. ANyone with any ideas?

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Rudy in Greenwood, Arkansas

28 months ago

Well ended up taking the truck to the dealer. Got the oil change and stuff. Asked about the "problem" i was having with the truck. Told the service manager, and he just smiled said that these trucks been doing that for a long time. WHich basically was that when your injectors start getting weak the cold weather is when it will show up. Which, i had changed 3 out and he basically said sounds like the other 3 are getting closer to needing replaced, or at least one of them is. Said one may have an irregular spray pattern and doesnt work right until it has warmed up. I asked if they could check it and tell which one it is. WHich, being as how i usually am just replacing one at a time he said they couldnt because to put it on computer you had to wait till the motor was warmup. And when its warmup the truck runs fine. So basically i just had to wait till it went out or until i had enough spare change to replace the other 3. Of course he told me then, what i will probably do is if i had enough time just let it sit and warmup for the 15-20mins it takes. Thats what he'd do. ANd thats probably what ill do too. Anyone have any ideas on where to buy these injectors? Here they charge 350$ + $150 core charge. Surely can find them cheaper on the net.

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allriggs

27 months ago

05, ihc 4300 dt466
it will not fire till engine oil psi starts to rise,
after warm up it starts normal
i believe the icp pump is lossing prime after the engine is shut down for awhile
can anyone tell me what to look for

thanks

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mechman in Minneapolis, Minnesota

26 months ago

allriggs said: 05, ihc 4300 dt466
it will not fire till engine oil psi starts to rise,
after warm up it starts normal
i believe the icp pump is lossing prime after the engine is shut down for awhile
can anyone tell me what to look for

thanks

This is probably too late for your post, but for anyone else, look next to the high pressure pump on the driver side of engine, on back of the front cover. There is a sensor next to the pump, the engine oil temp sender. Unhook the harness and unscrew the sensor. Lots of oil (1 to 11/2 qt) should drain out. This sensor is in the high pressure oil reservoir, so if it is empty or low after sitting, you have either a problem with the seal in the front cover, or a badly worn engine oil pump. Unfortunately, both of these problems are pretty hard for a layperson to repair.

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mechman in Minneapolis, Minnesota

26 months ago

Rudy in Greenwood, Arkansas said: Well ended up taking the truck to the dealer. Got the oil change and stuff. Asked about the "problem" i was having with the truck. Told the service manager, and he just smiled said that these trucks been doing that for a long time. WHich basically was that when your injectors start getting weak the cold weather is when it will show up. Which, i had changed 3 out and he basically said sounds like the other 3 are getting closer to needing replaced, or at least one of them is. Said one may have an irregular spray pattern and doesnt work right until it has warmed up. I asked if they could check it and tell which one it is. WHich, being as how i usually am just replacing one at a time he said they couldnt because to put it on computer you had to wait till the motor was warmup. And when its warmup the truck runs fine. So basically i just had to wait till it went out or until i had enough spare change to replace the other 3. Of course he told me then, what i will probably do is if i had enough time just let it sit and warmup for the 15-20mins it takes. Thats what he'd do. ANd thats probably what ill do too. Anyone have any ideas on where to buy these injectors? Here they charge 350$ + $150 core charge. Surely can find them cheaper on the net.

This may be a little late, but don't jump to the conclusion that injectors are bad. First the air intake and engine temp senders need to be checked to be sure they are working right. Also, if your truck has an intake heater grid, that has to be working.
If it is injectors, $350 is pretty cheap, and the core won't apply unless they are visibly damaged. The easiest way to check the sensors is with a scantool datastream menu, but the grid heater is easy to check with a multi meter.

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sela in Wellesley Hills, Massachusetts

17 months ago

on INTL 2004 model 4300 engine 7.6 ECON light stay on change filter and transs. fluids any help thanks

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Leo in Mesquite, Texas

16 months ago

I have a 2009 Intl 4300 DT466 I had problems with it turning on and also keeping power so I recently had the injectors changed on it. It worked for about a day then now it wont start at all not even with starter fluid. The warning light is WARN ENGINE* and an upside down triangle. What could be the problem?

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Tony Agcaa in Quincy, Massachusetts

14 months ago

Buythepound in Helmetta, New Jersey said: 05 4300 DT466 I am having trouble only when cold. Starts fine, idles good. After about 10 mins put in drive and pull out. It will start to idle weird like not running on all cylinders, even if I race it. Then orange engine light will come on, engine will idle perfectly but I have no throttle response at all I can race engine using the cruise control and runs smooth thru out the range. Then lights goes off pedal comes back along with higher rough idle and repeat over and over. Until I reach about 150 degrees although the idle stays a little high until I restart start engine where it goes back to normal. The truck runs perfectly the rest of the day. Brought to dealer and get codes for #1 injector shorted and pedal out of range, but when tested all is fine. Don't want them to just start throwing parts at it. Any ideas? If it didn't run fine the rest of the day these codes would make more sense.

U need to address any hard codes first if u do have a shorted injector code then address that
First the solenoid that's mounted on top off the injector is more the Lilly no good
U need to run an injector test/ buzz test
As far as the lost of throttle u lose then get back!
U also have a code for this ! The reason it comes back is because u cycle the key
Possible causes : bad IVS or wiring to the ECM from Acc pedal
So send to dealer if u do not have access to the software and tools needed to repair

I have seen in the past sending a truck to the dealer is no guaranty there not going to get in
The parts replacement mode

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bruce christopherson

14 months ago

Tony Agcaa in Quincy, Massachusetts said: U need to address any hard codes first if u do have a shorted injector code then address that
First the solenoid that's mounted on top off the injector is more the Lilly no good
U need to run an injector test/ buzz test
As far as the lost of throttle u lose then get back!
U also have a code for this ! The reason it comes back is because u cycle the key
Possible causes : bad IVS or wiring to the ECM from Acc pedal
So send to dealer if u do not have access to the software and tools needed to repair

I have seen in the past sending a truck to the dealer is no guaranty there not going to get in
The parts replacement mode

I agree with the above, but something that may not have been covered - the idle validation is part of the throttle position, but works over a separate circuit. The throttle position sensor can work, but that doesn't mean the idle validation or IVS works. the ECM needs to know that the throttle is actually at idle.
The injector code is probably incidental to your symptoms.
One thing I would check without fail is the intake temp sensor/circuit and the engine temp sensor/circuit. You need to ensure that those sensor outputs match actual conditions.

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Buythepound in Helmetta, New Jersey

14 months ago

bruce christopherson said: I agree with the above, but something that may not have been covered - the idle validation is part of the throttle position, but works over a separate circuit. The throttle position sensor can work, but that doesn't mean the idle validation or IVS works. the ECM needs to know that the throttle is actually at idle.
The injector code is probably incidental to your symptoms.
One thing I would check without fail is the intake temp sensor/circuit and the engine temp sensor/circuit. You need to ensure that those sensor outputs match actual conditions.

Thanks for everyone's quick response. The shop found that while I was having this issue the TPS was quickly fluctuating at 2-4% and should have been at 0%. So they felt I needed the pedal replaced. It ran good for them the next morning. They felt the injector code might have come from the mixed signals the pedal was sending or a separate issue all together. Just seems weird because they always occurred at the same time. Well I will give it a try this week it didn't happen all of the time just most, so time will tell. Thanks again I will update

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tces in Austin, Texas

14 months ago

I have a 2007 international 4300 truck with the dt 466 engine, the truck starts every time when the engine is cold, but when the engine warm up the truck just turn over but won't start. when the truck is running the engine runs good whith plenty of power, but as soon I turn it off it won't start untill the engine cools off.
I did notice the oil pressure drops to twenty five-thirty psi at idle when hot and about forty five-fifty at 2500 rpms.
Thanks for any help.

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Tony Agcaa in Quincy, Massachusetts

14 months ago

tces in Austin, Texas said: I have a 2007 international 4300 truck with the dt 466 engine, the truck starts every time when the engine is cold, but when the engine warm up the truck just turn over but won't start. when the truck is running the engine runs good whith plenty of power, but as soon I turn it off it won't start untill the engine cools off.
I did notice the oil pressure drops to twenty five-thirty psi at idle when hot and about forty five-fifty at 2500 rpms.
Thanks for any help.

Your engine oil pressure is good!
No check engine light on?( Yellow)
You will need to check huie/ injection pressure
When it's hot, if that's low u will need to test the huie
Oil pressure at the pump, this proscess will tell u either the huie pump
Is no good or u possibley have a leaky injector o ring

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tces in Austin, Texas

14 months ago

Thanks for the heads up Tony. The only light that's on, is the check AC but no other, what sould the reading be for oil pressure at the pump whith the oil hot and what sould be the injector pressure when hot. Also where can I check for injector pressure.
Thanks again.

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Tony Agcaa in Quincy, Massachusetts

14 months ago

tces in Austin, Texas said: Thanks for the heads up Tony. The only light that's on, is the check AC but no other, what sould the reading be for oil pressure at the pump whith the oil hot and what sould be the injector pressure when hot. Also where can I check for injector pressure.
Thanks again.

Oil pressure will vary normally at idle 20 to 45 psi
Minimal is no lower then 10 psi at idle,
Injection control pressure when cranking needs to be above 700 psi
For it to start, to check injection pressure u will need a lap top with international
Software if u have a high pressure head gauge u can
Attach it to the out pressure line from the huie pump

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ETOWAH EXPRESS in Gadsden, Alabama

13 months ago

just got my 2007 International 4300 with DT466 motor a couple months ago, noticed then it had a pretty fast idle, but it cranked and ran ok, but yellow engine light would go on and off. But just last week weather temps dropped and I took it on a delivery to Florida, and stopped at a truck stop on the way, and it would not crank after it had been running for several hundred miles. Finally, after some starting fluid, it cranked for few seconds. Waited couple hours and it started and idled with a very rough idle, which shook the whole truck. It idled this way for most of the trip back, but cruised good several hundred miles. Got back home, it would not start until it got more starting fluid, and then it idled normally. Took it to diesel shop, and no codes were active, just had a bunch of stored codes. Just reading this forum, where is best place to start troubleshooting? FUEL RETURN CHECK VALVE? INJECTOR CONTROL PRESSURE SENSOR? FUEL FILTER PRESSURE REGULATOR? OIL RAIL O-RINGS OR SEALS? FUEL INJECTOR SEALS OR O-RINGS? INTAKE HEATER GRID? SENSORS FOR OIL, AIR, TEMP?

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tces in Austin, Texas

13 months ago

your problem sounds similar to what I had. Let the engine cool down take the valve cover off and turn the truck on, watch the injectors top rack if you see lots of oil running down onto the injectors, removed the top rack off and replace the O'rings.
GOT ME RUNNING!!!!!!!

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ETOWAH EXPRESS in Gadsden, Alabama

13 months ago

also, oil pressure is good, and it has not used a drop of oil since petro changed it a month ago.

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tces in Austin, Texas

13 months ago

Yes, and while you checking that also check the wiring harness and the valve cover gasket, I replaced everything, also make sure that the O'rings are the correct thicknes.
I did everything my self, need to removed the dog house to remove the valve cover, lots of work but will save you lots of money.
Assuming you'r mechanicaly inclined.
yes the oil pressure is showing to be good but the high pressure to open the injectors to start the ignition is lost out of the O'RINGS.

Good Luck

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ETOWAH EXPRESS in Gadsden, Alabama

13 months ago

mechanicaly inclined? naw, I am functionally illiterate, I have to hire a shop to do most my work, lol, I am half blind, all thumbs, and arthritis stricken, but I do my best.

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AA mobile service in Albuquerque, New Mexico

12 months ago

ETOWAH EXPRESS in Gadsden, Alabama said: just got my 2007 International 4300 with DT466 motor a couple months ago, noticed then it had a pretty fast idle, but it cranked and ran ok, but yellow engine light would go on and off. But just last week weather temps dropped and I took it on a delivery to Florida, and stopped at a truck stop on the way, and it would not crank after it had been running for several hundred miles. Finally, after some starting fluid, it cranked for few seconds. Waited couple hours and it started and idled with a very rough idle, which shook the whole truck. It idled this way for most of the trip back, but cruised good several hundred miles. Got back home, it would not start until it got more starting fluid, and then it idled normally. Took it to diesel shop, and no codes were active, just had a bunch of stored codes. Just reading this forum, where is best place to start troubleshooting? FUEL RETURN CHECK VALVE? INJECTOR CONTROL PRESSURE SENSOR? FUEL FILTER PRESSURE REGULATOR? OIL RAIL O-RINGS OR SEALS? FUEL INJECTOR SEALS OR O-RINGS? INTAKE HEATER GRID? SENSORS FOR OIL, AIR, TEMP?

Try all connectors on sensors. don't forget a fuse top of the battery . its happened 2x. cable is to warm and broke a electric connection .sometime is a connector pig tale issue

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ETOWAH EXPRESS in Gadsden, Alabama

12 months ago

its running great now, the shop put in a new ICP sensor, and I stocked it up with Rev-X, and its almost like a new again, thx for everyone's help and input.

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Buythepound in Old Bridge, New Jersey

11 months ago

The problem is back. The mechanic replaced the throttle pedal which seemed to fix the problem. But every now and then the problem returns. Yesterday it happened again only this time the engine was warm and took about a hour of be stuck on the side of the road before starting to work good again. Problem starts off like it's not running on all cylinders then yellow engine light comes on and I loose throttle pedal but engine run perfectly now. Then light goes out and problem returns. Usually by the time the engine warms up good it goes away, but not yesterday.

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AA mobile service in Albuquerque, New Mexico

11 months ago

hello my friend.

first try cleanup ECM connectors, and check connector bolt torque- tide

when is accelerator pedal works good, and feel misfire, and after come out yellow check engine ,is run fine, somewhere is some contact bad. how many fault codes shoving display?? do you know which codes is it??? I know, that sucks but really important do step by step.

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Rudy In Fort Smith in Fort Smith, Arkansas

6 months ago

Post 1.

I have an 2005 IH 4300 DT466. Inframe at 151k miles,now with 296k)3 new injectors in a year ago. (previous 3 were changed in the 15months prior to that)New aluminum tank cuz rust issues. new turbo a year ago. Ok 2 weeks ago.I had got fuel in morning,the truck ran normal. The following morning I let it warm up like normal,went to drive it onto the Interstate on-ramp which is at a little bit of an incline. At around 1500 to 1700RPM the truck would go into like a dead spot for about 2seconds then power thru it and run. Then run good the rest of the morning. In the afternoon, id start truck on my route and same thing. id go to pull away from the post office and within a few mins of pulling away itd do the same dead spot at 15to 1700 rpms. But then run good the rest of my route. My initial thought was that I had got some bad fuel. This was on a tuesday. I changed the filter wednesday. same thing.

I spoke with my friend who was an IH mechanic. He told me he thought it sounded like water in fuel. He said sometimes when you get water in fuel like that you just have to run the truck really hard get the RPMS up and blow the water out of the injectors. Like manually shift it(its a standard)and really REV it up. He did my route for me and he said he did that. It was a Sunday. The following Monday I ran my route. truck ran great. Ran all week great until a week ago this past Saturday. As I was finishing up my evening route the truck ran really sluggish on take off from a stop light at the 15to1700RPM . I called my friend he said sounded like the fuel filter had got plugged again. So we changed it. The following morning, Sunday (a week ago) I ran my route. Figuring that changing the filter fixed the prob. Wrong. I went to get on the interstate on ramp. Same dead idle

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Rudy In Fort Smith in Fort Smith, Arkansas

6 months ago

-Continued Post 2

Same dead idle as I went up the little incline at 15-1700rpm. I got on interstate and I drove it hard. Once on interstate it ran like normal. I came up to the next stop sign. Upon take off it takes off fine but it did the same dead spot at 15-17rpms. itd go good after you got beyond those particular rpms. id drive it to the next stop sign. same thing. I thought man this thing is really clogged or something. I called my buddy he said to manually shift it. Which I did and I did my route. I told him I thought maybe the fuel tank needed to be drained. I was low on fuel I asked him if I should top it off maybe it would dilute the water (I thought) was in the tank. He said try it. I did and ran my truck afterwards. It still had to be manually shifted to overcome the dead spot at each stop sign. Now I drove it for about 30miles. It felt like it running better. I came to a 4way. It powered up fine. I stopped at truck stop purposely to see if it would do it again wheni got back in the truck. It ran normal. I finished up my route and the truck never had a problem rest of trip.

My friend told me the following day (Monday) to manually shift my whole route that morning and get the RPMS up and by my afternoon run the truck should be running good. I did that. Manually shifted the entire way. My afternoon trip the truck was doing the same thing at 15-17rpms. It did it at every stop sign/stop light so I just manually shifted rest of way in. Now once you got rolling, it would run good. It's just when you got it down in RPMS it would go dead at 15/17rpms. It ran good the afternoon run but I noticed once I got on interstate where it normally would run perfect at high RPMs it seemed like it was a little more burdened as I was driving. I took the truck to the interstate. I told them what it was doing. They too thought the truck had water in the fuel. Thought the tank needed to be drained. So after a few days (they were covered up in broke downs)

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Rudy In Fort Smith in Fort Smith, Arkansas

6 months ago

-Continued
Post 3
they called me and said it was ready. Said that they drained it, and checked it . The guy said that he did NOT see hardly any water at all. He said it had just a little bit of trash in it. he took off the screen on the little rock screen beside where the fuel filter normally is and it had just a little bit of trash in it. nothing special. He said that they checked the fuel pressure and it was off. He said that the pickup pump or whatever was bad (the one on the block of motor) was bad that it should have been around I think 60psi it was fluctuating at around 20-40psi So they changed it. $1064 They told me it was fixed, and it was test driven. ( i dont think it was) Well I went to get in it. Fired it up. Thing idled and sounded GREAT! Sounded quieter than ive ever heard this truck running. I went to get on the road to drive it to home and it did the SAME thing at 15/17rpms It just goes into an idle like state the rpms will just stay at 15/17 maybe climb a little but still its as if its dead no response from pressing the throttle at all. Then itll catch and just power thru and take off. Now I drove it back and one of the mechanics and me drove it. He drove and we took off. Now when he drove it. He took off like a dragster racer. He'd press the throttle and itd go like a dang rocket! I looked over and saw that the rpms would go to about 2500rpm every time he'd gas it. haha. Now he had no problems. I told him he drove it a little harder than I did. So he did the slower takeoffs like me and he found the same thing at 15/17 He's like yeah, there is a dead spot there. Hmmmm. well, we drove it about 7miles or so. we got on long straight and it had plenty of power once on long drives. And if you could just gas it soo hard that it didn't hesitate at 15/17 We got back, he says I don't know man. That's strange. He's like it doesn't show a code or anything. Ok so I leave it there. He says he'll get his computer guy to look it over

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Rudy In Fort Smith in Fort Smith, Arkansas

6 months ago

-Continued Post 4
Well I spoke with them the next day, this is like Thursday. I spoke with my mechanic (former employee of this International dealer). he spoke with their computer guy, a friend of his, and he said that they brainstormed and said that the fuel pressure was STILL fluctuating and they both thought that it was the fuel regulator located on the back of the motor. That it almost just had to be that because they couldn't think of anything else. My friend said that he would put it on for me so go get my truck otherwise International would charge me about $600 more in labor to put it on. So I went and got my truck, My friends friend had a few of these regulators , they are very small look like a socket head in every aspect. They just screw on the fuel line. I got my truck Friday night. Fired it up. Sounded great. Idled great. More queiter than ever. I went to park it until my friend could get to it to change it Sunday (today). As I left the dealer, the thing had no power on take off again at 15/17 rpm. I even manually shifted it and this time, manually shifting it had no effect on it powering thru the 15/17rpm barrier. I just kept gassing it, giving it throttle even though it just kept creeping. The rpms got up to about 2000 and then it took off like a rocket. It would drive like this until id come to a stop but id keep the RPMS up and itd power thru it. I got on the interstate and it felt great. drove probably the best that ive ever had the truck. I parked it until today. My friend gets the truck to put the fuel regulator on it. I spoke with him earlier. He was test driving it. He said it was doing the same thing as always at 15/17rpm. He said no power at those rpms then itd catch. It'd do this at every stop. Same thing. he was frustrated too. He said he just couldn't imagine what it was. I asked him if it was possibly the cam sensor. Because that thing does some very crazy things when they go out.

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Rudy In Fort Smith in Fort Smith, Arkansas

6 months ago

Contiued Post 5

And as everyone knows, they are notorious for going out. Although, they usually will kick out white smoke when they do. Mine is not. I asked him if he thought perhaps it was an injector going out or getting weak?? he's like I don't know. they should have saw it on the computer if it was bad if they ran the test. Which, I don't know if they did or not because they knew that I had had my injectors changed. So, I don't know. We are currently at wits end. I can't afford to keep putting parts on this truck because I'm actually wanting to get rid of this truck and get out of my route. At least as an owner/operator. But, I'd like my truck to be running good as for it will make the truck easier to sell when I can if it's running as opposed to not. Any ideas on what this may be? I'm just really burnt out on this truck. I wish the cummins motor had come out when I first got into the business in these trucks. I have been borrowing a truck from a coworker. One of his old standbys. It is a 1994 International with the Old DT466. It has 500k miles and it runs great! All original motor. No tear down. More power than mine. even though its a double clutching, gear grinding old crap box without an A/C installed. Mechanically it much better motor than what these newer "better" internationals have. =-( Any help is appreciated. I'll respond once I do figure out the prob.

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Mike T. in Fords, New Jersey

5 months ago

Hello, I also have 2003 international 2003 that loses power while driving. In the morning it will start normally and later on it will start losing power, first i will hear a click in the gear sifter the transmission light will appear on the dashboard and automatically it will slow down. It feels like it's not changing gears. All i have to do is pull over stop the truck wait a few seconds and restart it again. and it will be driving like nothing happen until it will happen again, that means a couple of minutes later and will go on and on until i reach my destination. went to see a couple of mechanics so far no one knows whats happening. Any one of you had a situation like that? Can you tell me what was the problem and how did you solved it. Thanks.

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Tony Agcaa in Quincy, Massachusetts

5 months ago

Mike T. in Fords, New Jersey said: Hello, I also have 2003 international 2003 that loses power while driving. In the morning it will start normally and later on it will start losing power, first i will hear a click in the gear sifter the transmission light will appear on the dashboard and automatically it will slow down. It feels like it's not changing gears. All i have to do is pull over stop the truck wait a few seconds and restart it again. and it will be driving like nothing happen until it will happen again, that means a couple of minutes later and will go on and on until i reach my destination. went to see a couple of mechanics so far no one knows whats happening. Any one of you had a situation like that? Can you tell me what was the problem and how did you solved it. Thanks.

You have a code when u shut your truck off your clearing the code
You need to find out what code u have and go from there

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Mike T. in Fords, New Jersey

5 months ago

Hello, I also have 2003 international 2003 that loses power while driving. In the morning it will start normally and later on it will start losing power, first i will hear a click in the gear sifter the transmission light will appear on the dashboard and automatically it will slow down. It feels like it's not changing gears. All i have to do is pull over stop the truck wait a few seconds and restart it again. and it will be driving like nothing happen until it will happen again, that means a couple of minutes later and will go on and on until i reach my destination. went to see a couple of mechanics so far no one knows whats happening. Any one of you had a situation like that? Can you tell me what was the problem and how did you solved it. Thanks

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aquariustowing@gmail.com in Kendall Park, New Jersey

3 months ago

Mike T. in Fords, New Jersey said: Hello, I also have 2003 international 2003 that loses power while driving . In the morning it will start normally and later on it will start losing power, first i will hear a click in the gear sifter the transmission light will appear on the dashboard and automatically it will slow down. It feels like it's not changing gears. All i have to do is pull over stop the truck wait a few seconds and restart it again. and it will be driving like nothing happen until it will happen again, that means a couple of minutes later and will go on and on until i reach my destination. went to see a couple of mechanics so far no one knows whats happening. Any one of you had a situation like that? Can you tell me what was the problem and how did you solved it. Thanks.

Check your filter housing between the prime pump and above the scavenger filter is a housing that holds a rubber ball that will brake apart an starve the engine of fuel intermittently or all the time. I found this after spending thousands of dollars.

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aquariustowing@gmail.com in Kendall Park, New Jersey

3 months ago

Tony Agcaa in Quincy, Massachusetts said: You have a code when u shut your truck off your clearing the code
You need to find out what code u have and go from there

Check your filter housing between the prime pump and above the scavenger filter is a housing that holds a rubber ball that will brake apart an starve the engine of fuel intermittently or all the time. I found this after spending thousands of dollars.

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aquariustowing@gmail.com in Kendall Park, New Jersey

3 months ago

MikeTireman in Richmond, Virginia said: I HAVE A 99' 4700 SERIES INTERNATIONAL DT 466 E (190 HP ) first off when i start my truck up to let it run and let idle for about 15 minutes before taken off i have no power but if i turn it off and start it back up it has plenty of power what could this be. I replaced CP sensor and this is a Brand new motor. I also recently had this happen I will be driving down the road and the starter will engage and stop then later engage again it will do it randomly out the blu. anyone have this problems before

Check your filter housing between the prime pump and above the scavenger filter is a housing that holds a rubber ball that will brake apart an starve the engine of fuel intermittently or all the time. I found this after spending thousands of dollars.

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aquariustowing@gmail.com in Kendall Park, New Jersey

3 months ago

Buythepound in Helmetta, New Jersey said: Thanks for everyone's quick response. The shop found that while I was having this issue the TPS was quickly fluctuating at 2-4% and should have been at 0%. So they felt I needed the pedal replaced. It ran good for them the next morning. They felt the injector code might have come from the mixed signals the pedal was sending or a separate issue all together. Just seems weird because they always occurred at the same time. Well I will give it a try this week it didn't happen all of the time just most, so time will tell. Thanks again I will update

I have experienced all of the above and lost thousands of dollars while figuring it out. My Allison mechanic could not find the gremlin that plagued my truck. He ultimately had ran an analog TPS reprogrammed the digital tranny computer to read this sending unit.

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aquariustowing@gmail.com in Kendall Park, New Jersey

3 months ago

Rudy In Fort Smith in Fort Smith, Arkansas said: Contiued Post 5

And as everyone knows, they are notorious for going out. Although, they usually will kick out white smoke when they do. Mine is not. I asked him if he thought perhaps it was an injector going out or getting weak?? he's like I don't know. they should have saw it on the computer if it was bad if they ran the test. Which, I don't know if they did or not because they knew that I had had my injectors changed. So, I don't know. We are currently at wits end. I can't afford to keep putting parts on this truck because I'm actually wanting to get rid of this truck and get out of my route. At least as an owner/operator. But, I'd like my truck to be running good as for it will make the truck easier to sell when I can if it's running as opposed to not. Any ideas on what this may be? I'm just really burnt out on this truck. I wish the cummins motor had come out when I first got into the business in these trucks. I have been borrowing a truck from a coworker. One of his old standbys. It is a 1994 International with the Old DT466. It has 500k miles and it runs great! All original motor. No tear down. More power than mine. even though its a double clutching, gear grinding old crap box without an A/C installed. Mechanically it much better motor than what these newer "better" internationals have. =-( Any help is appreciated. I'll respond once I do figure out the prob.

Check your filter housing between the prime pump and above the scavenger filter is a housing that holds a rubber ball that will brake apart an starve the engine of fuel intermittently or all the time. I found this after spending thousands of dollars.

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Greg in New Tazewell, Tennessee

1 month ago

2009 466T
eng warning light on and odometer
reset shows no faults but light wont go out and odometer still reads warning eng
any help would be sooooo appreciated

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Greg in New Tazewell, Tennessee

1 month ago

2006 not 09

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rudy of Fort smith in fort smith, Arkansas

1 month ago

Well guys I have an update on my truck. After sitting at the International dealer for 4months and them not doing a damn thing basically. I just sold my truck as is on Craigslist. I still owed 9300$. Sold i5 for 12500$. Bank value after all the stuff I've done to it was about 26000$. Anyway. Day I signed the papers I asked the guy if he figured out my problem. He said he did. But I wouldn't like it. After asking 3times. He finally told me. He said he took it to his mechanic and after 10mins of driving it with computer on it he said they figured it out. I'm like in disbelief because th3 truck has been sitting at carco international in ft.smith and they haven't figured anything out. He tells me it was the wastegate on the new turbo I had put on it at the dealer about 8 months ago. He said when it took off the wastegate would open and not allow pressure to build up. He said it should have been building 20 psi and it would only build 3psi. So he said he clamped some vice grips on it to make it stay shut and he said it ran better than his 2014 model! I was really pretty angry. Because the turbo had another 2yrs of warranty left. So it wouldn't have cost me a thing! Yet for whatever reason the dealer couldn't figure it out??? I basically had to sell my truck for a huge loss. And lost my livelihood because of it. All because of this faulty wastegate that the dealer wouldn't or couldn't figure out. I am truly in utter disbelief at what happened. But aanyways.regarless of how much I lost I'm glad I never have to deal with one of these piece of crap trucks ever again!. Good luck to all you guys that have them. I would advise any of you to never ever take your truck to the dealer in Fort smith! Good luck guys. You'll need it on these dang trucks.

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brian in Patchogue, New York

17 days ago

towman in Natchitoches, Louisiana said: I have a 2005,4300 International the heater will not get hot we have checked everything we can and still no heater,however when the fan switch is on low speed it will get alittle warm but when I turn the fan switch to hi speed it starts to getting cool and not warm up again until I switch back to low speed for 2-3 minutes.I need some help please

Can you tell me if you fixed your problem and how? I'm having same issue with my 2002 international 4300. Very little heat in cab. It's veryyyyyy cold out

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rudy of Fort smith in fort smith, Arkansas

17 days ago

brian in Patchogue, New York said: Can you tell me if you fixed your problem and how? I'm having same issue with my 2002 international 4300. Very little heat in cab. It's veryyyyyy cold out

That can be a couple of things. your heater core could be blocked. you may have to either change it out. Or you can unplug the hoses and get a high pressure hose and back flush it until the gunk coming out of it is clear. Or it can be one of the vents not closing and its allowing cold air to enter from outside. its the blend door. those little motors go out all the time. there are like 3 of them. that can make it seem cold.

id check the blend door first. then check the little motor that closes the door. I think its like 34$ if that isn't the prob then id try backflushing the heater core.

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